From here, the huge elaborately carved teak front door, with image of Lakshmi carved over the head and navaratna or nine precious gems buried under the (Vasapadi) threshold. The door leads into the first open air courtyard, with pillared corridors running on each side that lead into individual rooms, each meant for a married son, each with a triangular slot cut into the wall for the evening lamp.

The Second courtyard

Then comes the second courtyard with large dining spaces on either side. The third courtyard was for the women folk, while the fourth, or nalankattai comprised the kitchens, leading out to the backyard with its women's well and grinding stones. The wealthier the merchants the larger the house, often spreading out to a second floor.

The finishes

The walls are of baked bricks, plastered over by a secret recipe of roots, yolk and lime that leaves them silken smooth and washable; the tiles are Spanish; the floors of Italian marble or locally - crafted Athangudi tiles; and the pillars of Burmese teak, many houses have small turrets and elaborate guard houses on the terrace. The carvings and friezes are not just Hindu pantheon but include British soldiers, Victorian women, and scenes from the Raj.

The chettiar's main intent was to make his house a statement of his social success and he put everything into it, the pastiche of styles - Kerala Woodwork, neo-classical, Victorian, Anglo-Indian. The airy courtyards seem somehow to absorb and mute everything down inside.